Advent in Zagreb

This year we spent Christmas in Zagreb, Croatia. Now if you had asked me a year ago where I thought would be a fun destination in Europe for the holidays, Croatia definitely wouldn’t have come up. I had heard about it as a great summer beach vacation but it wasn’t until moving to Istanbul that a few people told me how amazing the Christmas Market is there. So amazing in fact, they were voted Best Christmas Market in Europe the last three years in a row. I don’t think this year would have been any different except, after winning three times, they can’t be included in the voting anymore.

Ban Josip Jelacic Square

The whole European Christmas Market concept is something relatively new to me. There was one in NYC’s Bryant Park that was always fun, but nothing like what we saw in Croatia. The tradition apparently dates all the way back to 1296 in Vienna when the first Dezembermarkt  (December Market) was held and shopkeepers would sell various supplies to the townspeople to last through the winter. Then in the early 1300’s in Germany, the winter market, turned into the Christmas Market, beginning and lasting through Advent, the four week period leading up to Christmas. Beautifully lit and decorated stalls lined the streets selling items such as baskets, toys, almonds, roasted chestnuts, and gingerbread to be given as gifts for Christmas. The idea spread throughout Europe and has become quite a spectacle, making many European cities magical destinations during the holidays. Many of the traditional foods are still offered in addition to grilled Bratwurst, hot-mulled wine, handmade ornaments and decorations as well as many other local specialties and treats.

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Homemade Eggnog

Eggnog is one of my all-time favorite holiday treats.  I enjoy it every which way.  Simply by the glass or even straight out of the carton, it’s perfect (not that I would ever do that, of course.).  Eggnog latte? Delicious.  Over ice with some bourbon? Yes, please!  Or even as an ice cream it’s supreme.  Ever tried eggnog ice cream?  It’s soooo good.  I use to feature it during the holidays on my dessert menu at the restaurant and have tried a few other versions as well.  It’s always something special.  Try it, if you can get your hands on some, perhaps paired with good gingerbread.

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Christmas Time in Istanbul

Sekerci Cafer Erol in Kadikoy

The holidays are in full swing here in our cozy Istanbul home.  Our tree is trimmed, stockings are hung, cookies have been decorated and Chestnut, our sweet and mischievous little Elf, even found his way across the world to us. 

Initially the thought of spending the holidays here, in a country that doesn’t really celebrate Christmas, given that the majority of the population is Muslim, was a depressing one to me.  To say I love Christmas, is putting it mildly.  The decorations, lights, festive treats, and even every cheesy song played on repeat during the month of December, well, I can’t get enough of it.  I’m one of those people who keeps that station on ALL month long.  Guilty.  And though, since losing my dad, Christmas, nor any holiday for that matter, won’t ever be as bright or nearly what it once was, now that I have little ones, experiencing Christmas through their eyes is it’s own kind of special.

While I’m still missing being close to family and friends, and get a lump in my throat when I think about the reality that I’ll be spending my first ever Christmas away from “home,” I have to say the holiday season here has had some nice surprises. 

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